The Essential Guide to Braemar, Scotland

Muddy Wellies, well-worn Barbour jackets, and Land Rovers are commonplace in Braemar, a small stone village in the middle of Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park.

Surrounded by towering—at least by U.K. standards—mountains, dense forests, and expansive moorlands that change appearance based on the light of day, Braemar is the type of place where warm fireplaces and inviting corners beckon, and travelers in search of fashionable (read: Instagrammable) accommodations find their target. 

I first fell in love with Braemar’s charms several years ago. During a solo road trip through the Scottish Highlands, I spent a few nights at The Fife Arms, a boutique hotel with two Michelin Keys and a recent World’s Best Awards winner. A former coaching inn built in the Scots Baronial style, the maximalist, art-filled property was reinvented by Iwan and Manuela Wirth of the famed art gallery Hauser & Wirth. Since opening in 2019, it’s become one of the most sought-after bookings in Aberdeenshire, Scotland—and it’s easy to see why, with its eclectic and thoughtfully curated suites, walls adorned with tartan and taxidermy, and the general sense of warmth and delight that drifts down the corridors and through the common spaces. 

The Fife Arms continues to make my personal list of favorite hotels, but it’s not the only thing that draws me back to Braemar. There’s also the crisp morning strolls past the gurgling Clunie Water to The Bothy, where coffee and fresh pastries await; the area’s fascinating history, deeply intertwined with the Royal Family; and the community’s embrace of all things outdoors. 

While you may catch a bit of a chill while cold plunging in the River Dee or hiking a nearby Munro—one of Scotland’s 3,000-plus-foot mountains—you can rest assured knowing a wee dram of whisky and a roaring fire are never too far away.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Braemar, Scotland. 

Best Hotels & Resorts

The Fife Arms

“The village is short of accommodation, so planning ahead is vital,” says Simon Blackett of Yellow Welly Tours. This is especially true if you want to experience The Fife Arms, the crown jewel of hotels in Braemar—and all of Cairngorms National Park, in fact. Each of the 46 rooms and suites is uniquely designed and inspired by some aspect of Scottish culture, be it history or literature. An impressive visual narrative continues as you explore every hallway, staircase, and common area; there are thousands of works of art throughout the hotel—even two by Picasso and one by Queen Victoria herself. 

Balmoral Arms

Following a large-scale refurbishment, the former Deeside Inn in Ballater—a village 25 minutes from Braemar—entered a new chapter as the Balmoral Arms. It’s a modern take on the country inn, and guests can expect comfort around every corner, from afternoon tea served by the fire to suites with bathtubs and complimentary whisky and shortbread.

Braemar Cabins

Braemar may not have a lot in the way of hotels, but it does have various guest houses and self-catering cottages. Braemar Cabins has four standalone cabins that are big enough to fit between two and four guests. Even the smallest cabin, Clunie, has a kitchen area with a stovetop, microwave, and fridge; it’s also outfitted with basic kitchen utensils and Wi-Fi. 

Best Things to Do

Spend time outside. 

“The hiking and walking opportunities are truly amazing,” says Blackett. Similarly, Fergus MacLeod, a ghillie (an old Gaelic word that means something similar to a concierge) at The Fife Arms, calls the landscape “the star of the show.”

With that in mind, bring plenty of activewear to Braemar. “There are more traditional activities, which might include walking, fishing, falconry, foraging, and stargazing. For a more modern approach, [there’s] a 4X4 tour into the hills, a sauna next to the river, e-biking through estate tracks, or clay pigeon shooting in a natural setting,” says MacLeod. 

If the riverside sauna piques your interest, reach out to Wild Braemar; the owner, Annie Armstrong, specializes in curating outdoor experiences, and she leads wild swimming excursions in the crystal-clear rivers around the village. In between cold plunges, you’ll warm up in a wood-fired sauna.

Explore the local village shops.

“Braemar Gallery is a real treasure trove for contemporary Scottish artists and local artisans … The Horn Shop is always fascinating … Another incredible craftsman is Alasdair at Lamont Sporrans, a master of the rare art of sporran making,” says MacLeod.  “For those with a sweet tooth, Dave at the Braemar Chocolate Shop has to be your first port of call.”

I’d also suggest swinging by Braemar Mountain Sports if you left your rain gear or outerwear at home, or perusing the goods at The Fife Arms Shop for a souvenir from your trip. 

Take a history tour.

According to Blackett, there’s “so much history on our doorsteps, including community—[with] Braemar Castle, Highland Games Centre, and [a] strong Jacobite connections.” While you can definitely explore on your own, I recommend joining him for one of his Yellow Welly Tours, that way, you can dive further into the history of Braemar and get an insider’s look at the village and the surrounding area. 

Visit Balmoral Castle.

Anyone who watched The Crown, or has a particular interest in the Royal Family, will want to make a beeline for Balmoral Castle, the famed estate purchased by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1852. Just a 13-minute drive from Braemar, Balmoral is closed when the family is in residence, but depending on when you visit, you may be able to tour the grounds, gardens, and special exhibitions.

Watch the Braemar Gathering.

MacLeod says to expect summer in Braemar to be busy, especially on the day of the Braemar Gathering, “when 15,000 attendees descend to witness processions of pipe bands, some ancient athletic events, and of course, the reigning monarch who joins as a spectator.” The historic event is held on the first Saturday in September every year at The Princess Royal and Duke of Fife Memorial Park, and participants engage in traditional Highland Games events like hammer throwing and tug-of-war.

Best Restaurants

The Flying Stag

Blackett recommends dining at one of The Fife Arms’ restaurants—and specifically calls out The Flying Stag for a “great experience … tasty traditional meals, and a well-stocked bar with great service.” Expect to run into both locals and hotel guests enjoying the ambiance and the fare. I’ve dined here a few times, and I continue to sing praise of the fried fish and chips—made with my gluten-free diet in mind. 

The Clunie Dining Room

For a more elegant affair, there’s The Clunie Dining Room at The Fife Arms. As a hotel guest, this is where you’ll eat breakfast. When evening arrives, however, it brings a dynamic, seasonal menu with locally and regionally sourced ingredients, including venison and lamb, as well as scallops and duck.  

Farquaharson’s Bar & Kitchen

While MacLeod says Braemar can feel “limited” when it comes to food, he says, “You will always receive a warm local welcome and good food at Farquharson’s Bar across the road from the hotel.” It’s a traditional pub, where the menu consists of comforting foods like bangers and mash, a Highlander burger, and haggis, neeps (mashed rutabaga), and tatties (potatoes). 

Gordon’s Tearoom 

“Gordon’s Tearoom offers excellent home baking and simple meals for all comers,” says Blackett. With a menu that includes breakfast brioche rolls and simple toasties and sandwiches, this is where you want to come before or after a strenuous hill walk or bike ride. 

The Bothy Braemar

Whether you’re in the mood for a full Scottish breakfast, a sweet snack, or a filling lunch, you’ll find it at The Bothy, one of my favorite spots in Braemar. The menu is incredibly gluten-free friendly and relatively inexpensive—expect to pay between 6 and 9 pounds sterling for a sandwich—and there’s both indoor and outdoor seating available. Pro tip: Come here for a to-go coffee and pastry or sausage roll as you wave goodbye to Braemar. 

Best Time to Visit

I’m personally partial to the cooler months in Braemar—late fall and winter are ideal for layering a waxed jacket over a thick sweater—but both MacLeod and Blackett share that this is the kind of destination with year-round appeal. “Late September, leading into early October, is a favorite of mine as the landscape is set alight with the colors of autumn and the sound of bellowing stags echoes through the village,” says MacLeod. “Winter and, particularly, the Christmas period offer short days of sharp cold, hopefully with some snow along the way.”

Come spring, he adds, you’ll get to experience Braemar after the winter chill and before the arrival of the infamous midges, the biting knat-like insects that appear as the weather warms up. “Summer is pleasantly warm, and the long days encourage outside recreation,” says Blackett. MacLeod also credits the “nearly 18 hours of daylight,” as well as the “purple-soaked hills” covered in the heather bloom, as reasons to visit this time of year, but adds that you may want to avoid summer if “quiet roads and solitude are a priority.”

No matter when you choose to visit, be sure to pack accordingly. “The weather is changeable all year round, so good footwear and plenty of layers are key,” says MacLeod. 

How to Get There

Braemar is a relatively short drive from Edinburgh—if you’re thinking in American terms, at least. At Edinburgh Airport (EDI), the closest major airport, you can rent a car and reach Braemar in about two hours. I would, however, recommend spending at least one night in the city before starting your drive north. This will help you acclimate to the time change and get your bearings, as you will be driving on the left side of the road while in Scotland.

How to Get Around

Braemar is small and incredibly walkable; you won’t need your car while exploring the village center. That said, you will need your own form of transportation to visit nearby villages, historical sites, and hiking trails. And if you want to see Braemar from the back of a Land Rover? Just ask the ghillies at The Fife Arms; they’ll get you sorted.